The Geometry of the Desert
The term Telia Rumal is a linguistic map of its making: Telia (oiled) and Rumal (square handkerchief). Historically woven in the weaving clusters of Chirala and Puttapaka, this double-ikat craft was originally commissioned by Arab merchants and Hyderabadi aristocrats who valued the fabric’s ability to remain cool in desert heat a property achieved through a rigorous oil-treatment process. The yarn is steeped in a mixture of castor oil and alkaline ash for weeks before dyeing, a distinct pre-treatment that allows the dyes to penetrate the core of the fiber, resulting in a rich, oily gloss. We have reimagined this 19th-century "Mathematics of the loom" where warp and weft are tied and dyed with absolute precision into a contemporary desert palette of sand, ochre, and rust, preserving the intricate geometric dialogue of its heritage while shedding its traditional silhouette